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Making a business out of truffles
By Skip Miller
Staff Writer
Their conversation becomes seamless, almost tidal. One moment racing, ebbing the next, seldom still. Calm, yes; still, never.
That is what happens when dream marries enthusiasm. It is neither craze nor fascination. It just is, a place in the mind too few people visit.
Here is Pat Martin: “As far as we know we are the first truffle growers in Virginia. There is a grower in North Carolina … “
And here is Maggie Shumack: “… Using our techniques you should have truffles in four or five years. The tree will continue to produce truffles as long as it lives.”
They look at each other, smile, somehow agreeing this story of Virginia Truffle Growers must start at the beginning.
A decade ago Pat Martin and her husband John were working in Singapore. Maggie was there, too, operating a consulting firm. Pat hired Maggie, and they worked together throughout Asia. More importantly, they became friends.
A few years later, back home in Washington, the Martins began talking about something to do with those quasi-retirement years when the hard charge of business is in the past, but the future demands financial and intellectual success.
Maybe it was John who first said “truffles”. He had lived in France. He knew truffles were worth more than their weight in gold to European kitchens that wanted the rich, earthy aroma and taste to enhance their very best dishes.
Truffles are a fungus, like a mushroom. They grow several inches below the surface, on the feeder roots of certain oak trees. Although they can grow to the size of a baseball, most are the size of a walnut. The whole truffle is never used in a dish. Just slivers or gratings are all it takes.
The main truffle-growing area is Europe, especially southwest France. Truffle-producing trees are also found in Italy, Germany, Austria – almost the whole of Europe. Many of the truffle-hosting trees were destroyed in World War II – the production has yet to recover. A century ago more than 300 tons were harvested. That has dropped to between 25 and 150 tons.
The more the Martins researched, the more fascinated they became. Pat infected Maggie. Two years ago Maggie took on the assignment of finding out what she could about truffle operations in her native Australia.
Maggie called Tasmania (“it’s the last land mass before the Antartica”) home and had been working in forestry, with exotic trees and eco-friendly spaces. When she began inquiring about truffles, all responses led her to Tim Terry, a fellow Tasmanian.
Tim’s operations account for almost all of the truffles produced in the Southern Hemisphere. Every one of those truffles is sold in Europe.
“Originally we were going to invest with Tim,” Pat said.
The original idea was short lived.
Maggie would learn the truffle operation. The Martins would look for land. Their business would be selling trees that had been inoculated with truffle spoors. They would sell the trees and the training.
After several months of searching the Martins found a small farm outside of Eggbornsville, the site of a busted dream to raise and train horses. Some outbuildings were moved, a greenhouse was built, and a water system constructed using a small, spring-fed pond.
Maggie arrived. Seedlings were inoculated. Thousands of them. The seedlings – the operation uses English and holly oaks – began to grow, and the women began to carefully introduce the operation to the public.
“We’re going to grow truffles here,” Maggie said. “That is not our main business, however.” Nor is the business specifically about growing trees. It is selling the span of knowledge and techniques it takes to produce truffles.
Why Culpeper County?
Because the county and the region has ingredients. It has a growing wine industry, affluence, internally-known restaurants and chefs, and is less than a half-day’s drive from Washington and its huge population base.
“We think what we have will appeal to traditional farmers, that youth group (Future Farmers of America), and hobby farmers. Although it is vital our techniques be followed, there really isn’t much to do until the fifth year.”
“At the same time you’re turning a piece of property into a beautiful, park-like setting of trees,” Pat continued.
“Seeing the trees planted in orderly rows, the grass mowed and maintained … “ Maggie interjected.
“… Who wouldn’t want to create that and grow something that can sell for $1,500 a pound?” Pat asked.
They were doing it again.
They recognize the tremendous amount of work that awaits them. They wonder if area farmers will be willing to listen. Will they accept the slow, five-year process?
Then again … Maggie smiled.
Virginia Truffle Growers would be offering a wonderful way to make money. A lot of money if everything comes together as it should.
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